Wagasi — Fulani cheese of Benin
"The Fulani and the cow are one. Where the cow goes, the Fulani follows." — West African saying
At the market in Abomey, among the piles of tomatoes, the bundles of cassava leaves and the pyramids of oranges, you will find something unexpected: cheese. Small white wheels, about the size of your palm, arranged on a cloth. They are wagasi, the traditional cheese of the Fulani people of Benin.
Wagasi is not widely known outside West Africa. It has none of the fame of feta or halloumi. It does not appear on international cheese boards. But in Benin, it is a cherished food, produced by Fulani herders using techniques that their ancestors developed generations ago. It deserves to be better known.
What is Wagasi?
Wagasi is a soft, unaged cheese made from cow's milk. It is white or pale cream in colour, with a mild, slightly salty flavour and a texture that sits between fresh mozzarella and paneer. When you bite into it, it squeaks gently against your teeth, a sign of freshness that wagasi lovers recognise immediately.
The cheese is produced in small wheels, typically 8 to 12 centimetres in diameter and 3 to 4 centimetres thick. Each wheel weighs about 200 to 300 grams. The surface is often coated in a thin layer of red wax, made from a plant-based dye, which helps preserve the cheese and gives it a distinctive appearance.
In Fon, the cheese is called wagasi. The Fulani call it choodam or simply cheese. The name varies by region, but the product is the same across Benin, Togo and northern Nigeria.
How Wagasi is made
The process of making wagasi has not changed significantly in generations. It begins with the milking.
Fulani herders rise before dawn. The cows are milked by hand, usually by women, who have been doing this work since childhood. The milk is warm and fresh, still carrying the heat of the animal's body. This is crucial: wagasi is made from raw, unpasteurised milk. The quality of the cheese depends entirely on the quality of the milk, which depends on the health of the cow and the grass it has grazed.
The fresh milk is poured into a large calabash or metal pot and set over a low fire. As it warms, the cheesemaker stirs in a natural coagulant. Traditionally this is a leaf from the Calotropis procera plant — known in French as faux kapokier or pommier de Sodome. The leaves are crushed, mixed with a little water and strained, producing a liquid that causes the milk to curdle.
Within minutes, the curds separate from the whey. The cheesemaker removes the pot from the fire and lets it rest. Then she scoops the curds into small woven baskets or perforated moulds, pressing them gently to expel the whey. The baskets give the cheese its characteristic shape and leave a textured pattern on the surface.
After pressing, the wheels are salted lightly on both sides. Some producers dip them in the red vegetable wax for preservation. The cheese is ready to eat immediately. It does not need to age.
The people behind the cheese
Wagasi is made by Fulani women. In Fulani society, milk and milk products are the domain of women. Men herd the cattle; women process the milk. This division of labour runs deep. A Fulani woman's skill at making wagasi and other dairy products is a source of pride and a marker of her competence.
The Fulani are pastoralists. Their entire way of life is built around cattle. They move with the seasons, following the grass and the water. Wherever they settle, even temporarily, the women begin making wagasi. It is both food for the family and a source of income.
In the markets of Benin, it is almost always Fulani women who sell wagasi. They sit behind their cloths, fanning away flies, calling out to passersby in a mix of Fulfulde, Fon and French. The cheese is their contribution to the household economy, and they are its most passionate advocates.
Where to find Wagasi in Abomey
Abomey is not in the Fulani heartland of northern Benin, but wagasi is readily available. The city's main market, the Marche Central d'Abomey, has several stalls where Fulani women sell cheese. The best time to buy is early morning, when the cheese has just arrived from the producing villages.
Look for wagasi that is firm but gives slightly when pressed. The colour should be uniformly white or pale cream. Avoid cheese that is yellowed or has a strong ammonia smell, both signs that it is past its best.
Wagasi is also sold in smaller village markets around Abomey. On market days, Fulani women walk in from the surrounding countryside, carrying their cheese in basins balanced on their heads. The selection is smaller but the quality is often excellent.
How to eat Wagasi
Wagasi is versatile. In Benin, it is eaten in several ways.
Fresh. The simplest way to eat wagasi is fresh, sliced and eaten as a snack. Its mild flavour pairs well with bread or grilled maize.
Fried. Wagasi holds its shape when cooked and does not melt. Sliced into thick slabs and fried in a little oil, it develops a golden crust while staying soft inside. This is the most common preparation in Beninese households.
In sauce. Wagasi can be added to sauces and stews. It adds richness without dominating the other flavours. In northern Benin, it is often included in tô (millet porridge) accompaniments.
Grilled. On street corners in Abomey and Cotonou, vendors grill wagasi on small charcoal braziers, brushing it with oil and sprinkling it with chilli and salt. Skewered and served hot, it is one of Benin's great street foods.
With akassa. For a traditional Fon meal, try wagasi with akassa (fermented maize porridge) and a spicy sauce. The mildness of the cheese balances the sourness of the akassa.
Wagasi beyond Benin
Wagasi belongs to a wider family of West African cheeses that includes wara (Nigeria), fromage peulh (across the Sahel) and tchoukou (Niger). The Fulani, whose pastoral territory spans a dozen countries, have carried their cheese-making traditions across the region.
Despite its quality and cultural value, wagasi has almost no international presence. It is not exported in any significant quantity. The reasons are practical: wagasi is fresh cheese with a short shelf life, made from raw milk, produced in small batches without industrial equipment. It does not travel well.
Some diaspora communities in Europe and North America have begun making wagasi from imported milk, using techniques brought from Benin. A small number of specialty African food shops carry it, usually frozen. But for the best experience, you need to eat it in Benin.
The economics of Wagasi
Making wagasi is not a path to wealth. A Fulani woman producing cheese earns a modest income, enough to supplement the household but rarely enough to transform it. The price of a wheel of wagasi at the Abomey market is typically 200 to 500 CFA francs, depending on size and quality. That is roughly 30 to 75 euro cents.
The economics reflect the reality of artisanal food production in West Africa. The work is hard, the margins thin and the competition from cheaper, industrially produced alternatives is growing. Yet Fulani women continue to make wagasi because it is what they know, what their mothers taught them, and what their customers still want.
Why Wagasi matters
Wagasi is more than a food. It is a record of Fulani knowledge: the plant-based coagulant, the hand-milking technique, the woven baskets that shape the cheese, the preservation methods that allow it to survive in a tropical climate without refrigeration. This knowledge has been transmitted orally, from mother to daughter, for generations.
It is also a connection between the Fulani and the Fon. In Benin, these two communities have coexisted for centuries, their relationship shaped by trade, mutual dependence and occasional tension. Wagasi is one of the goods that travels between them, carrying Fulani labour into Fon markets and Fon currency back to Fulani households.
And it is delicious. That alone is reason enough.
Frequently asked questions
Is wagasi vegetarian?
The cheese itself is made from cow's milk and a plant-based coagulant, making it technically vegetarian. However, some traditional coagulants may be derived from animal sources in certain regions. It is best to ask the producer.
Can i take wagasi home as a souvenir?
Wagasi is a fresh cheese and does not travel well. It is unlikely to survive a long international flight without refrigeration. For souvenirs, consider dried or preserved Beninese foods instead.
Does wagasi contain rennet?
Traditional wagasi is set using plant-based coagulants, not animal rennet. The most common is the crushed leaves of Calotropis procera.
Is wagasi pasteurised?
No. Wagasi is traditionally made from raw, unpasteurised milk. This is part of what gives it its character, but it also means the cheese carries some of the risks associated with raw dairy products.
What does wagasi taste like?
Wagasi has a mild, milky flavour with a slight saltiness. The texture is soft and slightly springy, similar to fresh mozzarella or paneer. When fried, it develops a nutty, caramelised exterior.
Where can i find wagasi in Cotonou?
Wagasi is sold at Dantokpa Market in Cotonou and at smaller markets across the city. Look for the Fulani women's section, usually near the dairy and egg vendors.
Explore more
Wagasi is one of the culinary treasures of Benin. Continue exploring Beninese food with our articles on Fon staples, sodabi palm liquor, and what to buy in Abomey's craft markets. For practical travel information including the best markets and food experiences, see our visit guide.